Journal 2005
Up Report 2005 Brazil Photos Journal 2005

 

 

Brazil VIM Trip Journal

September 2005

 

Team members: Ann (Team Leader), Judy, Cynthia, Dr Mark, Devair, Bob, Janice, Annie, Angela, Linda, and myself.

 

Saturday, September 3, 2005

Aaron dropped me off mid-morning at the KC airport. There are not very many people waiting for flights. I met Judy (from Florida) first in Atlanta and we waited 4 hours for the others (North Carolina) to arrive. We walked up and down the crowded terminal several times to kill time. Long flight to Sao Paulo on a 767-300.

 

Sunday, September 5

It was very hectic in Sao Paulo getting through customs, baggage recheck, getting to the final gate. Lots of people, lots of noise. In the terminal, people can get a chair massage. While waiting for the next flight, we sat in a noisy corner and did team introductions. It was the first chance we’ve had. Ann has 20 years of VIM experience. There are several nurses, a doctor, lab tech, and pharmacist. Bob and I are the non-medical people on the team. We’ll be helping with construction. And I was so hoping to help with a minor operation!  The flight to Manaus finally takes off one and a half hours late.

 

After landing in Manaus we got on a hired bus and went directly to the boat. The sun was very hot as we manhandled the luggage down the long wooden stairway to the boat. The boat has 3 levels. The rooms were tiny and slept 4 people. There are 3 of us guys (Bob, Mark, and I) in one room and we used the extra bunk for storage. I don’t know how those with 4 did it. You have to travel light – small bags.

 

Once underway, we all gathered in the boat “meeting room” for introductions and orientation with our Brazilian crew and team members. The leader of Brazilian team, and I guess the overall team, is a dentist - Dr Neto. He stressed that for the rest of the trip we are not the U.S. team and the Brazilian team – we are one team. There are two other Brazilian dentists (not including Neto). There are several evangelists who will be working with the locals when we get to our destination. Phillip is a very good interpreter and is the self proclaimed “mouth”. He keeps everyone in stitches the whole trip. Karol is another good interpreter.

 

The boat had not gone far when we stopped at a floating “Quik Trip” to get gas and other supplies. We were there a while and most got off the boat to avoid the fuel fumes and take one last opportunity to buy snack food and soda. For the most part I try to avoid junk food on trips like this, but I did buy something. I discovered that ice cream bars melt fast on the Amazon!  As we push away from the dock, a few folks start singing the theme from “Gilligan’s Island”. This is the beginning of a 16 hour trip on the river from Manaus to Canuma. As we move away from Manaus the sun has set. You can see the city lights on the left and on the right where there is no civilization it is totally dark. Not a single light! Quite a contrast.

 

Our first meal on the boat was interesting. First, the food was great! (although some of the repeats got old before the trip was over). An interesting part was the small size of the galley and the engine noise. The motor was next to and underneath where we ate. It was literally like being next to a plane with its jet engine roaring. It was very difficult to carry on a conversation. This is just part of the experience. Phillip informs us to just scrape leftover food into the water – “feed the fishes”.

 

Sometime during this first day on the boat, Ann was soaped up in the shower and the water somehow got turned off. [That’s what she said – I didn’t actually “see” anything.] Our first of many devotions was held on the top deck. Cynthia started us out with music on her guitar. She served well as the guitarista for the entire trip.

 

Monday, September 5

Last night (the first night traveling on the boat) was surprisingly a restful sleep. The low drone of the engines had a calming effect. Using ear plugs, you could only hear the low tones vibrating in your head.

 

Bilingual (as always) devotions began a beautiful sunny morning. There was something said during devotions about the last trip like this – some kind of conflict – spiritual warfare. I didn’t quite understand it through the translation. Later I asked Phillip for a better understanding of what was said. Apparently before the previous trip the pastor of the Manaus church parents died. She was not able to travel to them (or travel with the river team? Still not sure). We had devotions each day in the morning and evening.

 

It was the first time you could see the Amazon River banks well. We’re actually on the Medeira River. Go downstream from Manaus a ways and turn right. Technically, the river is not called the Amazon until downstream of Manaus. Before that the many different rivers and stream have different names. It’s a huge drainage basin and generically referred to as the Amazon.

 

There are plastic chairs on the deck in front of the Captain’s “bridge”. Also right there is the top of a double stairway from the lower deck. All of this is at the front of the boat which provides a good view, a pleasant experience of just sitting there with the breeze in your face, and the sound of the water being pushed. A couple of folks stood against the middle stair railing, looking forward, raising their arms saying “I’m King of the World” (from Titanic). That is until the Captain signals don’t do that – you’re obstructing his view! 

 

We stopped at Nova Olinda – a town of some size – not a village. We got off the boat and walked through the streets. There are many shops in the market. It seems we happen to be here on a holiday. Brazil’s (or the state of Amazonia?) Independence Day is being celebrated with decorations and a parade. There were youth and children marching as different groups, each with their specific color. There were marching drums bands as well. We poked our heads in a large church. It was very nice. Dr Neto was hobnobbing with the young Nova Olinda mayor – no doubt trying to make some evangelistic inroads. Races were held, 20km for the boys and 5km for girls. We saw the teenaged girls cross the finish line in front of the grandstand. There were vultures circling overhead and standing on the river bank. No doubt waiting for us to fall over from the heat. Flocks of vultures were at Canuma too.

 

We left Nova Olinda and were traveling once again. As we left the dock, so did another boat. It was sort of like “the bus” carrying people and goods along the river. A speed boat came up along side it and transferred three large stereo boxes (don’t know what was inside) from the small to the large boat while both were still moving. He must have missed the departure time and you do what you have to do to get your merchandise on the bus!

 

The water level was low this time of year. This made it more difficult to travel up the river. The difference between high and current water level was around 50 feet! You could really see the soil erosion on the banks. It was common to see houses on top of the banks elevated on poles 3-4 feet. This way it was unlikely to be flooded even if the water overflowed the banks.

 

The sun is very hot. It feels cooler in the shade. I’m sure the air temperature is hot too, but it doesn’t seem that way. It’s the sunlight striking your skin. If you look at a map, we are just a few degrees south of the Equator so this shouldn’t be surprising when you think about it. It’s humid too, but it’s not like the oppressive August humidity you find in the Midwest. This is true for the entire trip. Anytime you had a chance to stand in the shade, you did it. It was this first day in the sun that I started my sun burn. The tops of my feet had a cute “V” shaped burn from my flip-flops. 

 

There was lots of excitement at spotting several pink, fresh-water dolphins. You could see them when they jumped out of the water. They really are a light pink in color. Everyone was trying to get a good photo, but it was difficult since they were only out of the water 1-2 seconds.

 

We branched off the Madeira River into a canal (I believe man-made). It’s difficult for the boat to navigate in the shallow water. The canal eventually intersects with the wider Canuma River and at this junction is the village of Canuma. Mark’s GPS program running on his laptop indicates we are 1,000 miles inland and only 40 feet above sea level.

 

Phillip said three weeks ago the water was half way up the 40-50 foot bank. The water is falling fast. Eventually the canal we came through will be unusable.

 

Some crew members pulled a long heavy electrical cable from the boat up the river bank. This was hot-wired into the village electrical grid. This saved the boat from having to run a generator for power. There was a building at the top of the river bank which housed a truck engine powering a generator.

 

The Brazilian team went into town to talk with the locals. Back at the dock just feet from the tied-off boat, boys are swimming and diving into the water from a huge water-logged tree trunk. This served as the swimming pool diving board. Girls wash clothes with a brush and soap. It’s interesting to watch how people bathe in the river. They will lather up and just leave it sitting for a time while socializing. Then they jump in the river to rinse off.

 

The dock is a wooden structure with heavy planks for the surface. In some areas (like where most of the people are washing and swimming) planks are missing exposing the structure underneath. The dock as a whole floats on huge tree trunks. I’m curious to know how long those trunks have been there. The dock is tied off to the shore with two large ropes so it doesn’t float away. To bridge the small gap between the dock and dry land is a wooden beam. You have to “walk the plank” else get your feet wet.

 

The task now is to prepare the boat as a floating medical clinic. I helped Angela and Janice stock the Pharmacy – a small room with lots of narrow shelving. We unpacked the drugs from large boxes and placed them on the shelves alphabetically. We settled on the title for me of “Pharmacist Technician” because it sounds impressive and would look good on my resume! 

 

We passed down plastic chairs from the top level of the boat down to the dock. Until building supplies are emptied out of the “real” waiting room, the dock will have to serve. Triage was performed in the village, and then people were sent down the steep river bank.

 

Patients filtered down to the boat. A scales and blood pressure station were set up on the dock. The boat had different rooms for dental, lab work, pharmacy, and 2-3 examination rooms. We had three translators assigned to working with the health care team.

 

The local kids had fun playing with toys that Judy brought – play therapy. There was an alligator’s head where you pressed on the teeth. One at random would cause the mouth to snap shut. This was a popular one. A froggie hand puppet sang a song. Even the boat Captain got a kick out of this. There were toy medical instruments and blowing bubbles. The light breeze made lots of fast moving bubbles.

 

Dr Mark was looking all over for a scalpel. I said I had a multi-tool with a blade if he got real desperate, but he found something. As I stood outside the Dentist’s room I heard a loud cry of pain emanating followed by a few seconds of whimpering/crying. A minute later a 10-yr old girl emerged holding a small towel to the outside of her mouth – no doubt minus a tooth.

 

This was Monday afternoon and served as a trial run of the clinic process. Improvements will be made for tomorrow.

 

The big boat had two smaller aluminum boats with motors. Six of us (Mark, Phillip, the Captain, Carmen, Ann, and myself) took one of these boats to a nearby village. At the time, I didn’t even know what’s going on. “Hurry and just get in the boat!” Sounds like an adventure to me! We traveled about 10 minutes down river to some houses. Carmen got out and spoke to someone (President? Of village? I never understood). We stayed sitting in the boat. Then we all went back. Much to-do about nothing, but it was a nice ride.

 

Soup for dinner made from leftovers. It was real good with bread. It was dark outside and candles were on the tables for lighting. Since the boat was not moving, small gnats gathered around the candles. If the lights were turned on, they would be everywhere. You had to watch to make sure you didn’t get extra protein in your food.

 

Devotions and team meeting was good. Hit the sack.

 

Tuesday, September 6

Devotions at 6:45! Neto told the story of the building we will work on. Someone gave the land. Then they were told they would need to move, but the mayor said it was nothing to worry about. No work has been done since the last boat trip – it was supposed to be done. Job 1 for today is Carmen and others to coordinate with the local teachers for the Independence Day celebration. Job 2 is the medical activities. Job 3 is to empty the waiting room of building supplies. That will allow the area to actually be used for the waiting room. They will have a small TV and a Christian movie running for waiting patients.

 

Bob and I will work on the building construction (since we are the unskilled labor). A number of people helped to unload supplies from the waiting room onto the dock, then up the steep river bank.  Even at this early hour it was getting hot and humid, and this was difficult work for us gringos. It was hard for Bob and I to carry a door and frame. One of the local men carried one on his head by himself! I had to stop twice to rest carrying a 18(?) liter can of paint. After a while I whimped out and decided to let the men more capable than I to carry the heavy loads. Even at that we are sweating like pigs and it’s not yet 9:00 am.

 

Bob and I pretty much work under the guidance of the boat maintenance man. At least he’s a familiar face. At one point I showed him the multi-tool I had brought. He said something that I didn’t understand, but he used the word “specialty”. I agreed (even though he couldn’t understand me) that it was a specialty tool. The three of us wired the building over the course of the next few days (it would not meet U.S. building codes). Bob and I try to drink as much water as possible. It seems the other workers are used to the heat and get by with less water. Two hour lunch break including the 3 of us guys lying down to rest in the cabin. Back to work at 2:00 pm.

 

In the afternoon, Bob and I were given the task of nailing 6 large nails (3 x 3) on all the hinges of the window and door frames. The nails don’t go in very far. They stick out crossing each other in three pairs. The wood was so green that the sap ran after a nail was hammered in. The frames are set, shimmed, and then mortared around the nails to hold it in place. We’ll finish around the other cracks tomorrow. About a mile down the river, a rain shower moved through, but it barely sprinkled on us.

 

After work, some of us swam and bathed in the river. It’s the same place where others swim and wash, clothes are washed, hair is cut, dishes are washed, leftover food is tossed, and somewhere the sewage has to be expelled. You want to take a shower afterward to clean off the dirty river water, but it’s THE SAME WATER (except with minimal filtering)!

 

Devotions were long tonight. Everyone took turns saying what special experience happened to them today.

 

Wednesday, September 7

Today Canuma is celebrating Independence Day like Nova Olinda did on our way here. The actual event occurred in 1722. There are some speeches then a parade. Each unit marches by itself to the officials’ grandstand where it turns to present themselves and bow. A drum corps played a pounding rhythm for all the participants. The parade entries reflect different social and cultural aspect of Brazilian life, as well as many different organizations. We wore yellow and green ribbons and sun visors. At the end of the parade were the local Methodist kids that the Brazilians team members had been working with. The combined American and Brazilian team was asked to join in the parade. We formed into rows, marched in step, and took our turn in front of the reviewing stand. Brazilian parade marching is different than a U.S. high school band typically does. It’s a lower step, not really a shuffle, accompanied with arm swinging. It was actually a lot of fun doing that in time with the drum beat. I don’t know if the locals were smiling at us or with us. A good time was had by all.

 

Back at the construction site we helped spread a level sand base to pour the floor. It was tamped with a weight to compress the sand. I could only do this for about 10 minutes! I finished putting nails in the remaining door and window frames. 

 

This afternoon the boat undocked and then tied a large rope from the stern of the boat to the dock. To go back in time, last evening I noticed the dock as a little crocked – that is – sloped. I didn’t think that much about it and didn’t know why it was. In hindsight, the river level had dropped about 2 feet in 2 days and the side of the dock was grounding on the bank. The boat was going to pull the dock away from the bank and reset it.

 

At first they attached 2 large ropes and PULLED! The water churned at the back of the boat as the engine strained to pull the immovable dock. Several times they tried. They even used the heavy walkway plank as a fulcrum to pry the dock from the land side. Nothing seemed to work. One of the ropes eventually snapped. Luckily the group of people on the dock had moved to the bank just in case something like that happened. Then they attached many ropes, eventually pulled it loose into the river, and then floated it back in place.

 

If the boat had not been there, I don’t know how the townspeople would have got it off the bank. There were no other large boats. It would have made the dock much less usable – and it was used for everything!  So I coined the question “How many Methodists does it take to move a dock ten feet?” Answer: a boat load.

 

Working under the guidance of the boat maintenance guy was a little challenging. He was a rough looking sort, not real sociable or talkative. But he was a skilled electrician and hard worker. I once heard him softly whistling “The Old Rugged Cross”. There was not a translator at the construction site, so communication was by pointing and pantomime – certainly not by spoken word. Bob and I did not speak Portuguese and he not English. Communication was difficult. I was basically a “gofer” – very unskilled labor, but it helps him work more quickly and effectively. To get my attention he would snap his fingers or make a sound – psst psst. Bob usually had a better idea of what he wanted than I did and they worked better together. As long as I was doing something, I felt I was being productive. 

 

I asked Phillip how to say “Yes boss” in Portuguese – it’s “Si chef”. That afternoon when he pointed at something and spoke words I did not understand, I nodded and said “Si chef”. He smiled and said something to the other workers and all had a good laugh. I used that phrase several times.

 

Toward the end of today, Boss and I finished the wiring. We ran an electrical snake over to the electrical box. He spliced in two new runs, tripped the breaker, and the lights can on. Success!

 

Most of the Brazilian men dressed in cheap vinyl flip-flops, shorts, and oversized T-shirts or tank-top. It is better if the material is non-cotton. Between the river, rain, and sweat, clothing is always wet. A synthetic fabric is cooler and dries more quickly. That way it’s no big deal to be in the river for some reason. You’re in and out, and drip dry.  

 

This evening after dinner, we three guys were in our room. I’m lying in my bunk reading a book about ready to go to sleep. All at once eight of the women come into our tiny cabin – talk about standing room only. There were 11 people in the space of a couple of square yards. Apparently Phillip had “procured” a bottle of Coke for the ladies through the kitchen window. The head cook had baked a chocolate cake. The topic of conversation was whether or not “we” should steal, er, I mean procure, er, accelerate the partaking of this nutritious food element. Team leader Ann really wanted that cake. After sufficient debate it was decided not to do it. I refer to this incident as the “Invasion of the Amazon Women”.

 

Thursday, September 8

Morning devotions are determining that the “team song” is evolving as “This is the day that the Lord has made…”  We have done it several times. We alternate between English and Portuguese, one as an echo.

 

The original plan for today was to take the boat 12 miles down river to another village to conduct a medical clinic. The water is too shallow to risk it, so some of us will go in the two speed boats. All the feeder streams are dried up. We traveled a while and stopped at a village to pick up a woman and her young daughter as a guide. We traveled further and eventually come to the village of Pindonbal.

 

We set up clinic in a school. The walls were slotted to allow the air to move through. There is no Winter here. Lots of kids around.  There’s a triage area where a problem statement and blood pressure is obtained. I then “escort” the patients a few yards to the other room for them to sit until their turn to see Dr Mark. I even did triage for a short time while Cynthia made a split for a broken wrist (he fell out of a tree). Janice found a boy with a splinter which I extracted with my multi-tool. This is my first and only medical procedure. Mark said I can charge extra since it was a foreign body extraction! Other patients include a woman with 16 children (not all with her) and a teenage boy who fell on a nail that poked his eye 4 years ago who now has headaches. We saw 38 patients in all.

 

One cute little girl was holding a parakeet. The big photo op was a man who had killed a large monkey to eat. They also had a live fish, about a foot long, in a bowl with a little water. It looked like a big bottom feeder with armor. In the U.S. it would be a prize aquarium fish, but here it will be lunch. 

 

It was on the trip back that I doubled my sunburn into a burning crimson red. My red legs were a source of amusement for the team members. The sore muscles and sunburn are a nuisance at best, painful at worse. 

 

After we got back from the village it seemed so hot I just stayed in the room resting/reading for a few hours. The rooms at best have air blow-in that is slightly cooler than outside. To call it air conditioning as we know it is not an accurate statement. Hot is hot and there’s no way around it. Sometimes the “cool” air was not even working.

 

Later this afternoon some of us on a side trip to a farm, taking a speed boat to get there. It had horses, a tethered monkey, and many birds/fowls (peacocks, chicken, ducks, geese, etc). It used to be a farm, but is now being converted into a fish farm. On the way back to the big boat we saw grey dolphins.

 

At the construction site, all floors are poured except the bathroom. We are painting inside. 80% of the exterior stucco is done. To be honest, most of the work on the building is performed by the boat crew and local labor. Bob and I are just sort of “around” and help where we can.

 

This evening Bob gave a devotional/witness about his calling to be a lay speaker. He asked if others would like to share: Phillip (family of faith), Karol (struggles within family), and Mark (control).

 

Friday, September 9

This morning I thanked Karol for her witness at last evening’s devotion. As a gift, I gave her my F.R.O.G. (Fully Rely On God) bracelet for encouragement.

 

Today is the last day to work on the building. There’s still a lot of finishing work to do so I get to work. It seems like I’m doing more today and working harder than any previous day. Maybe it’s just the heat. I spend several hours painting inside and out. At 10:30 there is a dedication complete with ribbon cutting, refreshments, and fireworks. The explosions from the fireworks echo across the river. There’s free time until Noon when we’re supposed to cast off. We don’t get started until 2:00 pm though. At this time, it’s 83F in the “cooled” room and 118F on the sunlit top deck. For some reason, they turn the AC off. Maybe the batteries need to charge up. This starts our 16 hour return trip back to Manaus.

 

There is a long devotion tonight with communion. We took turns presenting individual team T-shirts to all the Brazilian team and crew members and saying a few words. I gave one to the “Boss” whom I had worked with on the building. As an additional gift, I presented him with my multi-tool. He accepted it, smiled, and said something in Portuguese. All the Brazilians laughed a great deal. Translated he said that he appreciated it and said he wanted it the first time he saw it!  I’m glad I gave it to him.

 

A later devotion story was that the Brazilian dentist was on this same trip as Ann last year. He was not a Christian back then, but is now. His wife is accompanying him on this trip for her first time. He gave a very moving account of how God touched her life this week – day by day.

 

Saturday, September 10

It’s a lazy morning. We’re still traveling on the boat toward Manaus. The Meeting of the Waters is fascinating. It’s the confluence the Rio Negro (Black River) and another river. The water is very clearly separated into brown and black water. Apparently the black water is due to acidic soil in the Rio Negro drainage basin.

 

We have arranged for brunch on a floating restaurant (on restaurant row). This is in the middle of nowhere! People have to travel via the river to get here. After we ate we took a water taxi over to a tourist market selling trinkets. It seemed to take forever to travel the final leg to the hotel. Maybe it was the anticipation as well as the heat. I killed some time reading in our small room. We arrived at the hotel at 2:00 pm. It sprinkled for a short while just as we went inside the building. Air conditioning and a good shower really feel great!

 

We got on a bus and head toward the market to buy souvenirs. Since dinner is late, some folks wanted to get a bite to eat before then. We stopped at a hamburger place at a VERY busy modern mall. By the time we got in and out of there (for questionable food) we only had 20-30 minutes for shopping. Didn’t have time to buy much.

 

We toured the Opera House which is a key attraction. It was built in the 1800s(?). It is a beautiful building – very fancy. You had to wear slippers in some rooms because the floor was such an intricate wood pattern. All the materials were shipped from Europe except the lumber.

 

We met Neto for dinner. This place had multiple buffets with different types of food. We all stuffed ourselves. Phillip said that the average minimum monthly wage is R$300, the average rent is R$700. This means that most people work more than one job and/or multiple people live together and pay rent. Phillip’s web site: http://phillion.multiply.com, email phillion7@qmail.com.

 

Sunday, September 11

The incoming flight at the Manaus airport was very delayed. The airline bussed all the passengers back to the hotel we had just come from for a huge buffet lunch. Then we killed some more time. We had our last devotions in the corner of a remote lobby at the hotel. This was my turn to lead (mud covers boogers and all the things we did by Faith). Back at the airport – more delays. We finally got to Sao Paulo at midnight missing our connecting flight.

 

It’s good that this was such a crazy, mixed up day. I didn’t know how I would feel with today being 9/11. This day back in 2001, I was in Mexico on a VIM trip. Fortunately I didn’t think about it much and things were OK.

 

Monday, September 12

The airline put everyone up at a Holiday Inn. By the time the bus gets there and a huge group checks in, it’s 3:00 am by the time I got to sleep. Wake up call is 5:30 am (this is hardly worth it). Bus ride back to the airport for a 8:00 am flight to Miami. Everyone in our group got connecting flights just before boarding except me. There are no flights to KC after we land so they will have to put me in a Miami hotel tonight. They said check in Miami.

 

Once we got to Miami everyone’s spirits picked up and people started to confirm their connecting flights. We will soon start to go our own way. I got through to Dad to tell him not to pick me up at the airport at the scheduled time.  Instead of staying over night, I caught a standby seat for a 6:00 pm flight to Houston – then KC. I said my good-byes to the group at TGIFs in the Miami airport. I arrived in KC at 11:00 pm. Dad was an hour late picking me up because he fell asleep!

 

The End