This is the journal from my first Sarajevo trip in 1997.

Monday-August 4, 1997

As we descend toward Sarajevo, you start to notice the large hills - not quite tall enough to be mountains. You can see little houses - all with red tile roofs. As we get lower and closer to the city (you still can't SEE the city) there are more and more houses. Suddenly as we make a final bank to land you actually see Sarajevo. Its main area is three by twelve kilometers nestled in a valley surrounded by ridges and hills. Tall buildings looking like giant gray concrete morels (the tall variety of mushrooms) push up throughout the city. This sight is brief because of the angle of approach, but it is a surprising vision.

 As we get lower yet, you start to see the destruction of the buildings. This is the first personal observation of war damage. Red roofs are missing, walls are missing, other damage from shelling, total destruction in some cases.

After landing, I was tempted to get my camera out of my bag and take some pictures upon exiting the plane. I'm glad I didn't. As we exited the rear of the plane, there was a whirlwind of sights. Decaying buildings, rusted inoperable walkways (from terminal to planes), concrete and iron tank traps, guards on bicycles, a guard with a German Shepherd and armed with an automatic weapon, barbed wire... Later we are told "no pictures of soldiers or police". It looks like a military radar station next to the runway is operating the field. It obviously is operational with soldiers in and around the tents next to it. The "tower" is lifted up on a scissors extension platform and is in the grass next to the runaway.

 As we stood in line to go through passport control, another commercial jet lands and a large white UN helicopter lands. There are people everywhere and it seems confused and surreal. This is definitely NOT a modern international airport. (Toto, we're not in Kansas any more) Sadly, it looks as though it was a very nice facility at one time. Now it is reminiscent of a rusting ship mothballed in some harbor.

 Driving from the airport in two UMCOR vans, close up damage to houses can be observed. Fighting around the airport and its adjacent neighborhood, Dobrinja, was particularly heavy. Many buildings are totally gutted and/or burned.  Exposed metal is rusting. Throughout the city there are as many broken windows as whole ones.

 We traveled to the Youth House and unloaded the suitcases containing donations. These were stored downstairs for the time being. We've been traveling for 24 hours now. The houses we are staying in are located all over town. Four of us (Howard, Bob, John and I) stay in a comfortable house/apartment located only two blocks from the Youth House. It is the closest location. Most others have to take buses or trams to get back and forth to their new "homes".

 The first floor of our house is occupied by Felix, the owner of the restaurant where we eat our meals. The owner of our place, Albin Medic, basically moved out so we can stay there. He is a nice fellow, though he speaks no English and we humorously try to communicate. It's unclear whether he temporarily stays downstairs or at other friends, but he is commonly around and comes in during the day to clean up the place for us. You can tell by the articles hanging on the wall he is Christian, which probably makes him Croatian. Later during the week, a visiting car with a Croat marking is in the "driveway", further suggesting that he and Felix are Bosnian Croats.

 After our first dinner (typically three courses), we went back to the Youth House for VIM orientation. Watch out for mines in areas that had been occupied by the Serbs. The water is only turned on in the city from about 6:00 am to noon and from 6:00 pm until midnight. THEN WE GO TO BED!

 Tuesday - August 5

 I had a good sleep from 9:00 pm until 8:00 am. The weather is great. Bill and I observed the computer class: Basic DOS. The class is a primitive computer lab with six computers plus a seventh in front. This one, however, does not boot because the Windows 95 registry file is corrupted. We never got around to reloading Windows on it. It's interesting to listen to the instructor. We understand what he's teaching, but we only understand a few words here and there.

 I spent some time playing table top pool with some boys. The first boy I don't see again after this day. Another is Derk, and a third is Andre. The later is an interesting case study. He looks like a young "tough", type A personality, street-wise kid. He acts/looks like, in the states, he would be in trouble in no time at all. With the stereo blasting in the next room for dance class, the door opening and closing all the time as kids pass from one room to another, makes it difficult to converse.

 At 3:00 we had a scheduling meeting with the Youth House director, Jasna, and the assistant director, Lejla. Most of the day was not very organized as we tried to understand the environment and find appropriate "niches" for ourselves. The Youth House and the team are in the "storming and norming" process.

We next brought up the suitcases FULL of donations so the material can be sorted. As the kids get wind of and see what's going on, there is much anticipation and excitement on their part - our part, too. The room was jammed packed with adults and kids as bags are opened, unloaded, sorted, in some cases repacked. A youth (Adnan) played Bosnian music on an electronic piano giving quite a festive, Christmas-like atmosphere. Everyone had a hectic, but fun time. The kids were anxious to help, but not pushy, greedy, or taking items without permission. Talk about the proverbial kid in a candy store.

 After the Youth House closed, devotions were held. The first team debriefing went OK. The first of many poignant stories are told.

 Back "home", I noticed a bullet hole in the wall three feet above the middle of my headboard.

 Wednesday - August 6

 Woke up early (4:00 am !) and laid in bed half asleep until 6:00.  Since we don't eat until 8:30, 1 got up and took a 50 minute walk - it's a very pleasant sunny morning.

 During the walk I realized what the strange looking marks are on the pavement. They are impacts from mortars and shells. There was no devastating impact crater. It's a "dimple" 12-16 inches in diameter. A starburst pattern of shrapnel "divots" radiates in all directions. One can only imagine the hundreds of fragments sprayed in all directions when these hit.

 There are people on the sidewalks, mostly women, selling cigarettes and other items on top of boxes. Sometimes they are standing with several cigarette packs fan out in their hand like a deck of cards so to more effectively make the sell. People are up and about starting their day - going to work or to the market I assume. Some are grubby looking yet some are professionally dressed. Cars are commonly parked on the sidewalk. The cars are much smaller than in the U.S. and the sidewalk are typically adjoining the street are much wider than ours. Occasionally military vehicles pass by, all marked with SFOR (Stabilization FORce). Sarajevo is in the French section. It is interesting to see the number of very small grocery markets - mom and pop operations. It isn't uncommon to see 2-3 per block, usually with bread and rolls stacked in an open shelf behind the counter.

 I stopped into guitar class for the first time. It's a small back room jammed with chairs, guitars, audio equipment, and other items. The library is also in this room. Initially, there was one girl (Aida) and the teacher, then a second girl (Selma) showed up. Aida has a sweet, innocent face and is shy. Selma is more outgoing, speaks more English, wears glasses, and is a bit blond. The instructor taught classical-style guitar music. Nobody was interested in the guitar picks I brought to give away - they use their fingers. I started playing along and later we switched to Bosnian folk songs, which the kids like to sing and play. Even after the teacher leaves, we stay and play. I'm invited back tomorrow!

 A group of us went for a walk with Dzenita (who has taken the nickname of Jenny) and Igor as our "tour guides". We took the tram toward the airport and got off at the end of the line. These trams are quaint and interesting. You are supposed to have a paper ticket costing 70 dinars. The ticket is placed in one of the small metal boxes and you pull a lever forward. This action punches specific holes in a number grid indicating this particular tram ride. I understand that when the tram became operational after the war, it represented a major step toward the direction of "normalcy" in Sarajevo.

 The tram was full and half of us were in one car and half in another. It is common practice for many people to NOT use a ticket. Children seem to be exempt, but many adults do not punch a ticket either. When we got off the tram, the other group was detained by plain clothes police. Americans stick out like a sore thumb and were checked for tickets. Three of them did not have tickets. They were fined DM 10 each. Wendy started an argument with them because she did not get a receipt and knows that DM 10 would be pocketed and not reported. Poor little Igor was in the middle of all this acting as interpreter and mediator. "Wendy.. wait.. WAIT... It does not matter." Afterwards as we walked away and nervously joked about what happened, Igor comments "He is not a good man" referring to the police - meaning they are not to be messed with. He knew Wendy was pressing a point not needing to be pressed.

 We walked several blocks then paid for horse buggy rides for the remaining couple of miles to a lovely park. This lane is lined with large trees specifically protected during the war so not to be cut down for firewood. The headwaters for the Bosna River originate in the park.

 These two kids are so cute and so protective of us. We are their responsibility, directing us·here and there - stop - go - wait... One of their common phrases is we MUST do this or we MUST do that... They make SURE we have properly punched tickets for the return ride. They MAKE us sit down in vacant seats. During the trip to the park, we missed lunch. When we got back to the Youth House I'm hot, hungry, and tired.

 Some of the kids were doing watercolors. One girl (Ajla) was drawing a very good picture of a woman with red hair. When she was done I asked if she would paint a picture that I could have. She did not speak English and at first she indicated no. Apparently my gestures made her think I wanted a picture OF me, not FOR me. She then indicated yes and painted a very good picture of me (and I have it). She has dark long hair and is very talented.

 I feel guilty about not spending more time in the computer room.  I hunted down the new hardware I brought, but there was a class going on. When I returned to work on the CD-ROM drive after dinner, things were locked up. Both the teacher and Adnan greatly wish to use the music software. Unfortunately, they will have to wait.

 Carol gave me the song selections for tonight's devotions. I sat on the front step and practiced them on a guitar. Adnan joined me and we practiced together. He is very good with music. We went in to get the harmonica (what we call accordion) and he picked up the music fairly well. I then needed to go into devotions. Adnan, via interpreter, said there might be an old harmonica for sale that I could buy. He will show me sometime.

 During the feedback session, there was a degree of concern about unmet expectations, staff interaction, and lack of coordination. There was good discussion and, unfortunately, it will probably result in more work for Lyle. In hindsight, while this session generated negative vibes, I feel it actually help. It resulted in increased communication with the Youth House, helps communicate team member expectations, and led to mapping a better course of action during the remaining days.

 Thursday - August 7

 Got up at 6:16 - John and I went for a walk. The weather is overcast, almost misting. Every morning is a photo opportunity.

 "Helped" in the morning computer class. Today's subject is Windows Program Manager. Afterward, Bill and I got the CD-ROM, audio card, speakers, and music software installed. Adnan was really wanting to get his hands on it.

 After lunch I spent a lot of time playing Ping-Pong with the boys. The table had to be assembled outside because there was no room inside. You could only play when it's nice weather with very little wind. We came "under fire" during this game. Apparently someone in the 22 story building didn't like the noise we were making or something. A plastic bag filled with water crashed down a few feet from me. The boys looked up and yelled at the unknown assailant. Later, another "bomb" hit the table. There looked to be an end piece to a plastic water bottle on the table, although it's hard to believe that a hard plastic water bottle dropped from a height wouldn't punch a hole through the table. Still later some very small rocks rained down on our playing field.

 I assisted in composing the fax letter sent to three churches represented by the team. I wrote a line on page 2 to Katie's Grandma telling her we hope to find Katie any day now. (She was initially opposed to Katie going on the trip. I hope she appreciates the humor!)

 After dinner the team is scheduled to meet Jasna and Lejla by the old library building near the old town. The library was targeted during the war and is virtually gutted and burned out. Hundreds of thousands of irreplaceable manuscripts were lost.

 We walked up old stone steps to a new cemetery. The graves are elevated boxes of earth on top of the ground. It gave the impression the coffin was on top, but it is actually buried. One end of the graveyard extended onto the hillside. The graves are packed close together - so many to bury and limited areas to bury in.

 We walked down into the old part of town, Bascarsija. The many one room shops are almost laid out by section, most jewelry shops together, most copper vendors together, sweets, etc. Most items are hand crafted by artisans right there in the shop. A little further out are more modern stores containing everyday items: small appliances, clothing, etc.

 We ate dinner at a small restaurant. The table and chairs are short and the floor is made up of uniform stones that are still wet, I assume from washing. Most of us ordered Cevapcici, pieces of super greasy beef (like little sausages). There was so much, no one could finish it all. We saw the sight of the 1995 bread line massacre. Two of the ever present mortar "craters" filled with red epoxy a few feet apart from each other mark the somber location. We also saw where Arch Duke Ferdinand was assassinated starting WW I.

 This has been a very full day!!!

 Friday - August 8

 The ever present barking dog across the street and the rooster awoke us at 6:00. The ol' rooster is pretty punctual, cock-a-doodle-doing at 6:00 am and 6:00 pm. Today is the day we tour Youth Houses in other towns. We met at 8:00 at the restaurant to collect our box breakfast and piled into two UMCOR vans driven by Ward and Dave.

 Outside Sarajevo we saw more military vehicles. First stop is Zenica. The Zenica Youth House is the first and oldest of the five Bosnian houses, starting in 1994. it was started here because, at the time, it was one of the few safe cities. There is a large refugee population (30,000 of them) in Zenica accounting for 35% refugees at the Youth House. Ages served are from five to twenty years old. This center produces the first Bosnian children's comic book and a magazine. A primary focus is on income generation programs. They have a fantastic video program and produce, with minimal equipment, professional looking videos.

 Next we visited UMCOR headquarters in Zenica, however, because we were running late most of the UMCOR people were gone to an off-site meeting. The SFOR force in the Zenica area is the Turkish Brigade.

 As we drove over the mountain road toward Travnik near Nova Bila, we passed by a Turkish tank and support personnel set up as a "picket" of sorts. There's no messin' with these dudes!

 Last year there were 10,000 houses rebuilt by UMCOR. A total of 160,000 were rebuilt in Bosnia by all agencies. As we passed through Novi Travnik, Dave told us we were now in Croatian controlled territory so no pictures. Five kilometers to Travnik.

 The UMCOR offices in Travnik have a very successful Heifer program.

 The Travnik Youth House just got its VIM team the day before. They are as tired as we were the first day. The Youth House, in existence since Nov 95, occupies the first floor of a (once) magnificent building owned by a music school which occupies the second floor. There are 701 children enrolled, ages 7-18. Classes include choir, orchestra, English, dance, accordion, etc. in front of the building is a very pleasant courtyard, almost park-like, for the children to play.

 While the team waited for our (soon to be mis-directed) lunch in "downtown" Travnik, a beggar woman with a small baby asks for money. There seems to be more police visible on the streets - I felt a little uncomfortable taking too many pictures. There was confusion about the lunch order because, unknown to us, the Travnik Youth House team ordered at the same time. We ended up walking a couple of blocks back to the Youth House, waiting for our order, and eating in the front courtyard. We're running behind schedule now. Eric gave me a small shell casing he found on the ground next to the Youth House.

 The next facility is in Gornji Vakuf. The story of this town is particularly sad and the mission of the Youth House has a unique aspect. There are actually two towns side by side, Gornji Vakuf and Uskoplje. One is primarily Croat and the other Muslim. You can't tell them apart unless you know the street that divides them. However, there are different utilities, city governments, laws, etc. The "GV" Youth House is on the dividing line - across the street is Uskoplje.

 When war broke out, so did fighting within the town. While each side funneled arms into the fight, these towns have the dubious distinction of not fighting an invading army. No Serb forces. Fighting was between neighbors. Persons who had known each other their entire life were now killing each other in hand-to-hand fighting. The fighting and its aftermath were particularly bitter. It's hard to forgive when you know that "Joe" down the street killed your family. There was much fighting and destruction in the small town and mine fields still exist in and outside of town.

 Because of the unique community mix, one of the Youth House goals is reconciliation. It serves 205 kids, six days a week. Beginning classes are separated by Croat and Muslim. Advanced classes, primarily at the input of a youth board, are mixed. The kids even celebrated the religious holidays of the other in a positive demonstration of reconciliation at their level.

 This is all done with a careful political balancing act to keep governments and parents informed. While it is difficult for these emotional war wounds to heal, the city officials understand that the Youth House serves an important function. Coming in the future will be Internet access and a Web page (on "Zamir").

 Here's a second hand story, although I can't remember who told it to me. Someone was talking with a man who was is in the Bosnian army. He was showing some photos. There was a group picture of military men. When asked, he indicated that was his officer training class before the war. These were his friends at the time, including Serbs.  Now they were enemies and he couldn't decide whether  to burn the pictures or not.

 Saturday - August 9

 In the morning, I spent time with the guitar class. We played folk songs, then two other girls and the instructor came in. The girls played and sang very well. Anna joined us with her flute. Another little girl, Dasa, played 3-part guitar music with Anna and the teacher. She was just a little thing, her fingers barely big enough to fit around the neck, but she played classical guitar very well.

 Senad, Adnan and I went on a shopping expedition. We tried to find an old "harmonica" for sell, but had no luck. I bought some T-shirts and hats (talked them down a little from an inflated price), copper items (negotiated 10% off, he said that was "best price"), and some pendants.

 I bought lunch for the three of us. Senad said it was his favorite place to have burek, a traditional "pie". It's actually strips about 8 inches long - meat wrapped inside bread and baked. Greasy as all get out, but it sure is tasty!

 Adnan got his personal harmonica and I used the one at the Youth House. He taught me a Bosnian folk song. He's a very good teacher, which is what he is studying to become. The language of music is universal.

 At 5:00 pm, the UMCOR chaplain from Zenica provided a worship service with communion for us, then feedback time, and then dinner.

 Lyle and I had arranged with Adnan and Senad to go to a 9:00 pm movie. It was the Nutty Professor with Bosnian subtitles. On the tram coming back, Senad said we didn't need to punch our tickets at night. "Trust me" he said. Senad and Lyle were together in one part of the tram and Adnan and I toward the back.

 Well sure enough, down the line a ways the "tram cops" started to randomly check tickets. He asked for mine although I thought he was asking for my ID card. I didn't have a stick of ID on me and my ticket was NOT punched. Oh oh! I played the dumb American and didn't speak any Bosnian words. Adnan did not speak any English to him and did not intervene to stay out of it. I could tell the cop was now asking for my passport. I tried to indicate that I had nothing. We started to move toward the door in back, but his partner was coming from that direction. Another youth who spoke English helped out by asking me if I had a punched ticket. I said no, but I could punch it. "Too late now" he said. As I pulled the ticket out of my front pocket, the cop saw my DM 10 bill. That did it. He tagged me for the DM 10 fine, but at least I got a receipt! This left me with only DM 7 plus the DM 20 required to get out of the country (airport tax). Senad was super apologetic when we got off the tram. I told him it was no big deal and it was even kind of funny.

 I learned the next day that Senad saw him coming and told Lyle to stand down in the steps by the door and stay there. He and other boy stood in front of him. The cop checked them, but apparently did not see Lyle who got off at the next stop anyway.

 Senad was leaving very early the next day to travel to another city for 10 days. We said our good-byes that night.

 Sunday-August 10

 The Youth House is closed today and we had a free day off. We had breakfast and picked up sack lunches. Ward drove the early group in the van around town a little then to the large park. It is the same park that Dzenita and Igor took us to. Two military bands from Italy provided a concert at 11:00 am.

 Both bands had battle fatigues on. The marching band had on "Robin Hood" or "Peter Pan" hats - soft hats with a point in the front with a side feather. They played traditional marching band songs. Good, but boring.

 The brass band was more exiting and fewer in numbers. Their hats were large, blank "planter" hats with round tops and huge black feather plums. When not on their heads, the hats were slung over the shoulder. When on the head, they were greatly cocked to one side. The players formed two concentric circles and the leader grunted commands to begin playing. Horns were raised high and they played loud and fast.

 After we drove back to the Youth House John, Ward, and I looked around for a girl from Photo class who was suppose to meet John, but we could not locate her. In the process we walked around a lot and took pictures. Ward took us to the Olympic stadium and nearby cemetery. To kill time before a meeting Ward had, we walked around the old town and ran into the rest of the team. They are "parked" at a cafe taking a rest. The three of us had ice cream. It was a little before 5:00 pm when I got back home, cleaned up, and napped for an hour before dinner.

 Lyle announced that after lengthy discussion with Wendy they recommended the team not view the graphic war footage video. Of course, those who wanted to see it may do so. After dinner Wendy, John, and I took a walk along the river. Three young boys hit us up for money, but no luck for them. When the four of us guys were back at the house we discussed the film issue. Before, if the team were to view it I would too. Now, I'm leaning not to view it. Reliving the battle for Sarajevo is not why I am here, helping at the Youth House is.

 Monday- August 11

 It's overcast again this morning.  The first two mornings were sunny, but every day since started out cloudy. It rained a little only one afternoon.  I'm surprised it did not rain yesterday - it looked like it might.  About half the days have been cloudy, which is good, otherwise it would be uncomfortably hot.

 At 10:30, the computer teacher briefing occurred and I worked with the piano teacher on music software. After lunch, Bill and I worked more on the computers. At 3:00 the kids put on a program for us - it is wonderful. There are many talented kids here - some of which I haven't seen before at the Youth House. In December 1996, on the 1st anniversary, they held a similar "concert". A music hall was rented for a 2 hour program and 500 people attended.

 There was a "reception" for the team and teachers afterwards and we found out additional information about the Youth House. In 1996, it served 5,600 students in five cycles. There are other youth centers in Sarajevo, but no youth houses. They are not the same. One particular youth center has a large facility and tries to act like the Youth House. The current Youth House location is no longer available after the end of 1997. Another location is tentatively selected, but needs MUCH work, the first of which is de-mining. Most parents have to work and can not volunteer time to fix up the new Youth House  It is a big challenge and the team worries about what lies ahead for the Youth House.

 Before dinner John, Adnan, Dijana, and I walked down around the soccer stadium in the previously Serb controlled area. They both opened up about the war as we walked this heavily fought area. Sometime during the trip, we are told that a company of women Romanian sharpshooters was brought it by the Serbs. Bounties were placed on children.

 Adnan lived on the sixth floor in the blue trim, burned out apartment building we took pictures of the day before. He was in the basement when the fires started.  He said his new apartment is small.  It is not far from Jasna's old apartment building and next to the building with colorful paint. Serb snipers occupied the stadium's tall light towers - this area was hotly contested. Snipers were also located in the tall yellow trim buildings. A picture shows how the top floors are much damaged as a result while the lower floors are not. Adnan told us his best friend was killed by a sniper.

 Adnan and Dijana were fans of two different Sarajevo football (soccer) teams. They teased and argued about which one was better (just like American sports enthusiasts).

 They both worried that fighting eventually will start again. They do not like the Dayton accord. Displaced Serbs can come back to Sarajevo and have rights to old houses. Bosnians have no rights (to houses?). When asked what they would do if fighting started again, they answered "I don't know". They thought they would have to stay in Sarajevo. Not too many options.

 At dinner we were goofing around. Jenney was examining Bill's remaining coffee grounds and saying how gross it looked. She dipped a tiny amount on her finger, tasted it, and it was TERRIBLE. As a joke, I offered her DM 1, then DM 2 if she would chug the remains. She, of course, would not, but Eric said he would. I withdrew the offer because I didn't really want someone to do that. He did it anyway and I went ahead and gave him the DM 2.

 Right after dinner some of us went to the old town again. John had arranged this with Sanela and Enita for 8:00 pm. Katie and Jenney joined us. We had to wait for the 3rd tram because they were all so full. We got checked for our "karta" on the way. We walked by the BiH "White House" although it was so dark it was difficult to see anything.  I had commented earlier that in spite of all the crazy driving, I had seen no traffic accidents. Sure enough within 10-15 minutes we saw one.

 Tuesday -August 12

 There were 16 kids and 5 computers ready for the 9:00 computer class and the teacher called in indicating he wouldn't be there. Jasna asked Bill and I if we could teach a class. First a few minutes playing games, then Bill gave a short lesson on how to switch between programs in Program Manager, then finish with more games. The rest of the morning is spent installing software.

 The kids really like to practice their English. I hardly have a chance to speak the Bosnian I practiced before coming here. They learn it in class, but speaking with an American is a luxury for putting it into practice. They love to take pictures, too!

 After the spaghetti lunch (very good!), I went for a walk and took more depressing pictures. After returning to the Youth House, I worked on jig saw puzzles and practiced with Adnan.

 During the bombing, people who did not open windows had many of them broken. People who opened windows saved them from breaking.

 This evening Susan Mclntyre, Head of UMCOR Missions in Bosnia, spoke with us. Oddly enough, her area had nothing to do with VIM teams. UMCOR has NGO (Non Government Organization) offices in seven countries: Armenia, Bosnia, Haiti, Liberia, Georgia, Azerbiajan, and Sierra Leone. She has been stationed in the first four and only in Bosnia for 2 months.  Building churches is not part of UMCOR's mission here because governmental funds are used. In Bosnia, shelter programming is very big. The UN gave a $30 million grant to UMCOR, the largest in the UN's history. When the GBGM signs a contract with the UN there are certain obligations. If UMCOR was found in non performance, the UN could theoretically demand all the money back.  There is a risk of liability when "playing with the big boys".  However, they are the ones with the big bucks which can be used for good deeds. 80% of UMCOR's budget goes to direct mission, like hurricane relief, etc. The other 20% goes for NGOs, like Susan's area. It's important to access new funds. The church could never do this much on its own.

 It is very political to select which  homes are fixed.   Verify owners of house,  if someone else is living there find a place for them, obtain written commitment to live there (not sell it), if over 60% damaged it can not be repaired. Municipality, UMCOR, and family meet.   Priorities include children, elderly, handicap. Watch out for frauds. For returning families other services are provided: de-mining, garden space, live stock. Because international money is used, certain targets or quotas are used: 50% for returnees from other countries, 40% internally displaced, 10% in place. However, percentages are in the process of changing there are not enough returnees.

 The Sarajevo Youth House is becoming a local NGO and will become less reliant on UMCOR for funding. Because of this, in addition to UMCOR not setting their budget yet and the Youth House moving at year end, the Youth House is at risk. This is a case of bad timing.

 UMCOR's organization is confusing - it's like a big corporation. One great hour of sharing provides all of UMCOR's operating funds, $3 million. Advanced specials get 100% of money directly to the project.

 Wednesday- August 12

 John and I went for a morning walk up into a new area for us. A road led up to a neighborhood on the hillside south of the Youth House. You got a different view of the city from up there.

 Practiced "Black Butterflies" with Anna. Later in guitar class I found out the correct chords and arrangement.  Practiced with Adnan for our number, Caje Sukarije. Two of his friends joined in with us banging on percussion instruments. In the little room, I almost broke an eardrum from all the NOISE!

 Bad news. Two computers crashed. One hard drive was reformatted and required ALL software to be reloaded. This was the one with the new CD-ROM and sound card installed. The second one won't even boot correctly from a diskette. Not sure what will happen with that one. Bill wrote up some PC maintenance procedures and I am editing them.

 This afternoon is our big farewell program from the team to the kids. Anna and I had one last flute and guitar practice with the revised arrangement. The team met in the little "coat" room to put on the San Francisco 49ers T-shirts and AT&T (gag!) bandannas as our "uniform". We also had a last minute review of the program - this should be very interesting.

 After team pictures the place is a mad house as we prepared and the kids filed into the too-small dance room. Adnan and I got in a very last minute (much needed) rehearsal during the "pregame".  The program (as best I can remember) was: 1. Sing "Part of the Family" 2.  Do the Hokey Pokey 3. Drama by kids (in Bosnian) 4. Anna and I on flute and guitar doing "Black Butterflies" 5. Adnan and I doing a harmonica (accordion) and electronic keyboard duet 6.   Sang a song which a girl translated the first verse into Bosnian 7.  Handed out bandannas as a gift and symbol of inclusion into our group 8.  Group photo opportunity of the kids

 The duet with Anna was well received with some people quietly singing along with the song followed by a good round of applause. When Adnan and I started playing I was pleasantly shocked. Immediately they recognized the song, began cheering, and started clapping in time to the music. While I had flubs here and there (well documented on the video), Adnan's excellent playing covered it up for the most part. The kids loved it and there was thunderous applause at the completion as I shook Adnan's hand. It was the high point of the trip for me!!

 Later John and I go with Sanela, Adnan, Enita, and Dijana for pizza and cokes. They said they have already eaten and are not hungry, and just for us to eat. We made them have cokes and eventually Adnan and Enita helped us finish the pizzas. We had a long walk up and down the river.

 I get a good opportunity to talk with Sanela. She wants to work in a hotel or be a tour guide. In school she is studying French and Arabic, but not English. She is learning that on her own! Her father was a POW for two years and five months. Her mother was living in Turkey during the war. She and her brother lived with an aunt and uncle in another town in eastern Bosnia. They came INTO Sarajevo in 1994 through the famous airport tunnel. It was so small you had to stoop down to walk through.

 Thursday- August 13

 Last day. More or less awake at 4:30 and could not get back to sleep. I got up and finished editing the PC maintenance document. At breakfast Wendy talked about saying good-bye, expectations, going home, etc..

 During the morning much of the time was spent saying good-byes, writing notes to each other, giving gifts. I gave my Croat-English dictionary to Sanela. I asked Dijana to give Adnan my KC Chiefs cap and a goodbye note for him. He had gone to another city that morning and was unable to be at the Youth House. It's a difficult time knowing we had to leave in a short time...

 Lejla and Jasna joined us for our last lunch under the ol' red canopy. Parting instructions from Lyle, and gifts for the Jasna, Lejla, Ward, and Eric. Then load into vehicles and go to the airport. Since the previous 10 days, a lot of work has been done to the terminal: new drywall and paint is areas. Hvala i dovidenja Sarajevo .....