2001 LC4-E 400cc
Modifications and Information

Contents of this page:
Parts Info (cross reference)
Soft Luggage (Type and mounting solution) & Map Case
Bar Risers
Electric Charging Information
GPS Wiring and mounting
Chain and Sprockets
Auxiliary Fuel Options

Carburetion: Carb Theory (*htm) or as MS Word

Parts is Parts:

Diagrams:

Soft Luggage / Map Case, Set-Off / Heat Shield - These survived a week of high-country Colorado camping off of the bikes.

The front tank panniers are made by Wolfman out of Colorado. They worked very well to keep the load on the back of the bike reasonable:
http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/Tank/TankPanniers.html. The rear soft bags are a simple design by Givi ... mine are several years old, "Voyaguer" model. This model seems close: http://www.giviusa.com/caschi_borse_bauli_...asp?CO_ID=16873. On bike: image060.jpg, DSC00235.JPG, image084.jpg.

Map Case: http://www.cycoactive.com/mc/bp3.html. Definitely buy one again. image060.jpg, DSC00235.JPG, image084.jpg.

Soft Luggage / Seat Panniers on bike: image084.jpg and DSC00235.JPG and image060.jpg. The duct tape was used to protect the seat plastic from rubbing. Not sure it was needed. The red bungees go to the brackets for pass. pegs. Keeps bounce down. You want to keep the bags as stationary as possible.

I welded up a right-side support for the plastic so that a soft bag could rest against it and not put pressure on either the plastic attachment bolts or the tool kit. The bar end is just visible below the tool kit box. A rubber spacer is attached where the bar is hidden. This spacer is what touches the plastic side shield. The three bolts that attach under the seat are 1/2" longer. I used 1/2" hollow bar stock. The bends (2 of them, both hidden behind tool kit) were tricky so as to not stress the bar that supports the tool kit or the tool kit itself.

Left-side setup is a bit easier. Two screw clamps bought for attaching exhaust hose to a clothes dryer and a Simpson Strong-Tie from Lowe's / Home Depot. The tie was 12" long, folded / attached the same on both ends. The stock muffler spacer doesn't hold up too well.

You can just barely see the second clamp and front end of the bracket.

Bar risers: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58561
Two Harley Davidson EVO Air Cleaner Risers / Spacers. (approx. 33mm long)
Two 10mm x 100 mm allen head bolts.
Two 10mm Nyloc nuts (match thread pitch to bolts).

Electrical Capacity / Charging     From: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197163
Farkle draw:
55W stock bulb pulls 4.6A @ 12V, 3.7A @ 14.8V (and if you to the both-on 55w headlight wiring mod, that comes to 9.2A ... Adv has two lights.)
HID High Beam, 2.9A
HID Low Beam, 2.9A
Heated Jacket, 6.5A (Vest would be less)
Heated Grips, 1.7A

Then at different engine speeds the stator makes variable power: (For a 2003 640 Adv)
1500 rpm 9A
2000 rpm 11A
3000 rpm 13A
6000 rpm 14A (207 W @14.8V, 210 @ 15, 170 @ 12)

 

GPS Wiring: How to hard wire a GPS power cable AND provide a charge cable.

Note: In wiring the 2-prong SAE plug, remember that
- you need to connect it in such a way that the male (exposed) plug on the power side is NOT hot (+). Power-side female is (+).
- the accessory side male/female are OPPOSITE the power side, as the power male fits into the accessory female and vice-versa.

1. Buy a Ring Terminal Harness from Battery Tender or your local auto parts store or MC shop. You may need to extend this to reach the battery. I used 16 or 14 ga black lamp cord. You can scavenge this off of a cheap 4' extension cord. If you extend it, remember to use heat shrink tubing over the soldered connections. A larger diameter piece around the entire cable will keep the separated wires together. Yes, soldered connections. I also solder the ring terminals after I crimp them. In this way, oxidation won't form between the two metals and break the connection. Oxidation can cause enough resistance to produce very high temperatures at the connection.

Make your own: 16 or 14 ga lamp cord, 2 prong SAE plug (female = (+)), in-line fuse holder, ring terminal crimp-ons, heat shrink tubing. Run this from the battery up to your handlebars. Use zipties to hold in place.

This puts an unswitched, direct-to-battery plug where it can be easily accessed.

2. Buy a GPS power cable, either bare wire or with a cig plug (which you are going to cut off).

If you connect a 2-prong SAE plug to the cig plug that you cut off, you can use the cable both on your MC or in your car. On the cig plug side, SAE female is (+).

3. Connect the GPS cable to a 2-prong SAE plug.
Place a larger diameter piece of heat shrink over the entire GPS cable and then place smaller diameter heat shrink over the leads before you connect / solder the SAE plug to the GPS power cord. The male SAE goes to Garmin red (+), female SAE goes to Garmin black (-). These connections (male, female) are opposite of the power side connecton.

Note that the color scheme of the SAE plug may not match; red SAE may be negative ... ignore the SAE color scheme.

GPS Mount and Dual Star bar mount mirrors (there is one on the other side too):
GPS mount is a bar clamp, 3" connector, and Touratech cradle. Allows the brake line to pivot upward on suspension compression.

Chain and Sprockets

Stock gearing is 15/45. The front (CounterShaft) sprocket can go up to a 16T without changing the chain guide. A 17T chain guide is available from KTM: 58430047000. I am currently running a 50T rear, with a chain cut such that I can switch between 14T, 15T, 16T, and 17T CS sprockets. Swapping out a front CS is much easier (and lighter to carry) than a rear sprocket. With a 16/50 I can still hit 90 before the bike runs out of power.

At my next change I am going to drop the rear to a 47T or 48T. 16/48 would return the bike to stock, but still allow me to gear down for trail riding.

Using a SenDec tachometer, with 15/50 gearing, I am running 4100 rpm at 45 mph. That means 8200 rpm at 90 mph, which seems to be the top speed of my 400.

Auxiliary Fuel Options

Not sure what these guys have to offer motorcyclists, but looks like a well made product: http://www.turtlepac.com/default.htm

Gas-O-Haul: (Two different names, but they look like the same exact product.)
"LIES FLAT, 6 1/2" x14" x 2", DIN, ISO and EU/UK specification compliant UN-DOT Certified/APPROVED, HOLDS 3.5 LITRES, APPROX.1 U.S. GALLON"
I haven't used these yet, but I might order up a six pack with a friend and try them out. Probably ditch the box and put the bag in a tank bag or rear fender bag

Who makes it:
http://gasohaul.qcommerce.com/: LINLI Construction, Inc. , 3650 South Dahlia , Denver, CO 80237, 303-332-6828
http://www.itzagascan.com/Index.html: 

Cheapest source I found:
https://store.centennial-fb.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=15, 6 pack = $28.50 + $8 s/h. 12 pack = $54.60 +s/h.

More expensive source: "Free shipping" but $11 handling fee per order:
http://www.genuinehotrod.com/Products.asp?DepID=2&SecID=69&PLID=92 1 for $8.95 + handling fee.

Links

640/625 LC4 E / SXC Info:
SXC: No cush hub. 9L fuel tank (12 or 18 L on the E), longer wheelbase & more travel, high HP cam shaft, desert bike.
E: milder power, better single track / woods bike
2001: Counterbalancer added. Electric and kick start.
2002: SXC: No downtube oil / no downtube oil filter (cap = 1.3 L vs 1.9 L on the E model)
2003: Hi Flow head (more horsepower, less torque).
2004: SXC Keihin FCR41 carb; BST40 on the E.
2005: SXC larger oil circuit (Europe only?)